Aari embroidery, or Aari work, is a chain embroidery style usually associated with India. It uses an elongated shaft with a thin hook (Aari hook) at the end.
Usually, the hook is attached to the wooden handle. The word Aari (also written as Aari) is derived from Hindi and means It is still unknown where this embroidery originated, except for India, it is sometimes related to China. Aari embroidery is exported westward from Gujarat in western India to the Persian Gulf and other regions.
This decorative stitching appears in Iran and parts of the Middle East, especially Syria, where it is called Ghabani work. The Aryan labor force is also believed to have been introduced to Kashmir in the 16th century. There are many types of Aari jobs, depending on the type of abrasive material, the thread used, and the final product. For example, in Kutch and Gujarat, Aryan works are used to decorate leather goods such as bags, saddles and shoes. The base material of Aari embroidery is sometimes stretched on the frame and then processed. In other cases, it is just held in the hand, again depending on the type of ground material used. In order to make Aari works, you need to draw or print the design on the ground material, and then use Aari hooks to sew.
Feed the yarn from the bottom of the fabric with one hand, and hold the hook on the top with the other hand. The hook is pushed through the material, grabs the yarn, and then lifts it through the ground material in the form of a small loop. The loop is then used to form chain stitches. Repeat this process until the design is complete. Aari's embroidery can also include beads, sequins and sequins, which remain on the front of the material (unlike the European version, which often works on the back of the ground material).
Generally speaking, sewing chain stitches with hooks is much faster than sewing with traditional needles, so it is widely used in commercial workshops. In the 18th century, Aryan works came to Europe and were quickly adopted. Especially in France and England.
In Europe, it is called drum work or drum embroidery (after the French word drum, which means drum), or sometimes Luneville embroidery, to commemorate a French town famous for producing such work in the 19th century. In Europe, hooks used for drumming are often called drum hooks or Luneville hooks.
Source: DHAMIJA, Jasleen (2004). Asian embroidery,
New Delhi: Abhinav Publications, pp. 294-296. Morrel, Annie (1994).
Indian embroidery technology, London: B.T. Batsford Ltd., pp. 111-120.